Foodist Page 7

Seafood Watch List

  In matters of sustainability my go-to source is the Monterey Bay Aquarium’s Seafood Watch List.3 I don’t know as much about the environment as I do about health, but in general I follow the guidelines below to help myself sleep at night.

  BUY FROM TRUSTED SOURCES. Since I personally cannot keep up on all the fish sustainability issues, I am sure to shop at places that do. Most small, high-end seafood vendors do a good job of at least telling you where their fish comes from and will often include sustainability labels.

  SHOP AT WHOLE FOODS. Though Whole Foods isn’t perfect, it does a great job of labeling the origin of its animal products. This is leaps and bounds over what most grocery stores do.

  EAT WILD ALASKAN SALMON. Alaskan fishing regulations are designed to promote sustainability, and their methods have been incredibly effective. Alaskan salmon is also nutritionally superior to Atlantic or farmed salmon.

  EAT SARDINES. These little guys are sustainable, healthy, and delicious. I prefer fresh sardines, but I also enjoy the boneless, skinless sardines from cans. Pair with dry-as-a-bone white wine. Yum, yum.

  NEVER, EVER EAT BLUEFIN TUNA. These magnificent animals are on the verge of extinction. Don’t do it!

  EAT FISH AT RESPONSIBLE RESTAURANTS. These days many high-end restaurants proudly label the origin of their fish on the menu. This is not always true, however, especially in Japanese restaurants.

  NEVER SHOP AT CHEAP ASIAN FISH MARKETS. Cheap fish equals bad news. Sorry. I know a lot of people rely on these, but personally I do not trust them. Many of the fish sold at these stores are shipped in from China (if the store clerks deny it, they are likely lying to you). China is notorious for intentionally mislabeling its food products. Don’t assume the fish from there is either safe or sustainable, regardless of what the label says.

  AVOID TUNA. Do you still order maguro (tuna) at sushi restaurants? How boring and unethical. Try getting something that you’ve never heard of that may be less likely to be overfished. And don’t be afraid to ask where it came from.

  ASK THE MONTEREY BAY AQUARIUM. When in doubt, visit its Super Green List4 for the best seafood choices at the moment.

  WHOLE GRAINS, MEAT, AND DAIRY ARE REALLY CONTROVERSIAL (BUT PROBABLY FINE)

  Now for the fun stuff. Want to start a fight? Walk into a paleo conference (or online forum) and tell them red meat will kill you by causing heart disease and cancer and that whole grains are healthy, especially for the heart. If you can escape without a bunch of barefoot dudes chucking you across the parking lot, you’ll probably at least have a few hundred scientific articles disproving everything you were ever told hurled at you in scorn. Want to start another fight? Go to a vegan conference and tell them the exact opposite—that meat is healthy and whole grains are dangerous—and you’ll get the same response, except the pile of articles flying toward your face will seem to support their argument instead.*

  So who is right? Obviously the science isn’t as clear-cut as any dogmatist would like you to believe, or the debate wouldn’t be so heated. I’ll start by pointing out the slightly uncomfortable fact that the majority on both sides of the fence appear to be healthy people. Sure, there are exceptions,* but for the most part these are all people who care deeply about health and what they put into their bodies. Most of them eat real food and as populations eat far more vegetables than your average Joe. Similarly, both groups eat closer to the way I eat than your typical American. From the outside, demonizing either doesn’t seem like a particularly wise strategy. And I would never suggest that people change what works for them to meet some theoretical health ideal.

  EATING ANIMALS

  Meat is undoubtedly controversial. Beyond the ethical questions regarding using animals for food, for decades scientists and government agencies have told us that meat and its coconspirator, saturated fat, are responsible for heart disease (the number one killer in Western civilization) and recommended everyone cut way back on consumption.

  After over half a century of additional research, it turns out this condemnation may have been a bit premature. In 2010, a panel of the world’s leading experts on heart disease met at a conference in Copenhagen to reach a consensus on the state of the research regarding saturated fat and heart disease. The report was published in 2011 in the American Journal of Clinical Nutrition.5 Contrary to what a rational person may have expected, given the recommendations over the past several decades, reducing how much saturated fat you eat is not a reliable way to reduce heart risk.

  This is because what you replace the fat with is important. Replacing saturated fat with carbohydrates provides no benefit, and if those carbohydrates are refined, they are actually more harmful than the animal fat. Similarly, there is not enough evidence that replacing saturated fat with monounsaturated fat (the kind in olive oil) reduces heart-disease risk. Heart protection only occurs when saturated fats are replaced with polyunsaturated fats, those lovely omega-3 fatty acids that are found in fish and some plants.* Processed oils, like those nasty trans fats we hear so much about (which can be either mono- or polyunsaturated), are also more dangerous than saturated fats. Likewise, processed meats (think pink slime) are worse for the heart than natural meats that contain saturated fat.

  Still, this does not let meat off the hook completely. This study only addressed heart disease, but cancer and other diseases may still be a concern. There is also the issue of sourcing. For instance, industrial meat production relies heavily on hormones and antibiotics to allow animals to grow bigger and faster than they ever would in nature. They are also housed in unsanitary conditions and fed grains rather than their natural diet of grass, both of which deplete the nutrient quality (not to mention flavor) of farm animals. Moreover, environmental toxins tend to accumulate in the fat of animals, so those subjected to industrial conditions may be concentrated sources of chemicals that may increase cancer and other health risks for people who eat them. We don’t yet have the answers to all these questions, but I would not feel comfortable stating that you can eat unlimited amounts of meat from any source and expect it to come without consequences.

  That said, meat is one of the most nutritious foods available to humans. It’s rich in vitamin B12, an essential nutrient not available in sufficient quantities in plant foods alone. Vegetarians must take a supplement to receive sufficient B12. Meat is also an excellent source of vitamin B6, niacin, iron, selenium, zinc, and other essential vitamins and minerals. You don’t have to like it, but meat does pack a nutritional punch that’s hard to beat. If you are careful about quality and keep your portions in an acceptable range,* it is reasonable to include meat as a regular part of your healthstyle. I’ve found that I lose weight fastest if I include some meat, but not very much. You will have to experiment to figure out the best amount for yourself.

  WHOLE GRAINS

  In many ways whole grains are just as controversial as meat. Entire books have been written (albeit not very convincingly) about how wheat and gluten are the cause of all the problems in Western civilization. Meanwhile, nutritionists and medical establishments are still telling us whole grains are an essential part of a healthy diet. What’s the story?

  The Top 10 Most Underrated Health Foods

  We already know that food manufacturers and the media tend to exaggerate the benefits of popular health foods, but what about all the wonderfully healthy foods they ignore? It’s time to shine the spotlight on ten of my favorite healthy foods that never get the attention they deserve.

  1. Oysters

  Per calorie, oysters are one of the most nutritious foods on the planet and are particularly high in essential omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin D, which is notoriously tough to get from food. Also, because oysters lack a central nervous system and 95 percent of the world’s supply is sustainably farmed, some vegetarian thought leaders have argued that oysters can be included in the diet as an ethical source of natural vitamin B12 (present in significant quantities only in animal foods).

  2. Sauerkraut a
nd Kimchi

  I’m the first to admit that fermented foods can be a little pungent, but that doesn’t preclude them from tasting delicious and being one of the healthiest things you can eat. Traditionally, fermentation has been used to preserve foods, but it also serves to increase nutritional value and add friendly bacteria to the gut. These healthy microbes help with digestion and nutrient absorption, and without them our gut health deteriorates substantially, setting the stage for many chronic diseases.

  3. Dark and Organ Meats

  People often demonize meats, especially the darker varieties, for their fat content and overlook how nutritious they are. Of course, they are relatively higher in calories as well, which is why you don’t need to eat very much at a sitting. But fear of saturated fat shouldn’t deter you from enjoying the occasional piece of fatty meat every now and then. Organ meats in particular, like liver and kidney, are rich sources of essential nutrients, and they can be delicious when prepared properly.

  4. Seaweed

  Okinawa is a small island in southern Japan that is home to some of the longest-lived people on earth. Sea vegetables are a staple of the traditional Okinawan diet and are thought to be responsible for many aspects of Okinawans’ health. Seaweed is also a good source of iodine for people who prefer to use high-end sea salts or kosher salt for cooking, which lack sufficient iodine. I make an effort to eat seaweed often and try as many different kinds as I can get my hands on.

  5. Egg Yolks

  I might be beating a dead horse with this one, but until I stop seeing friends and family throwing out perfectly good egg yolks, I’m just going to keep drilling home this point. Egg consumption is not associated with heart disease. Dietary cholesterol has a negligible impact on blood cholesterol, and for some people whole eggs even improve blood lipids. Also, you’re throwing away so much tasty goodness. Keep in mind that if you buy fresh, pastured eggs (hens frolicking in grass eating bugs—find them at your local farmers market or health food store), nutrient values will be significantly higher than in conventional eggs.

  6. Beans and Lentils

  My favorite thing about Tim Ferriss’s The 4-Hour Body is that it made beans and lentils cool to eat.6 I’ve been telling readers this for years, and finally people are listening, but there are still a lot of folks out there who don’t appreciate how wonderful they really are.

  For myself and many others, weight loss is much easier when we include beans and lentils rather than eliminating carbohydrates completely. Plus they fill you with energy without the bloating and other negative effects that can sometimes come from grains. They’re also a great source of iron, folate, and other essential nutrients.

  7. Root Vegetables

  Root vegetables are right up there with the green leafies in my book. In fact, many of them are from the same cruciferous family. I never come home from shopping without at least one bunch of radishes, salad turnips, or carrots. I also have a lot of love for beets, sunchokes, and even potatoes. Vegetables don’t need to be green to be good for you.

  8. Coffee

  Many people view their morning brew as a vice, but in reality coffee is a healthy beverage. Coffee is one of the best sources of polyphenols and antioxidants in many people’s diets and has been proven to protect against liver disease, type 2 diabetes, and a host of other diseases. The biggest problem most people have with coffee is confusing the brew itself with the creamy, sugary drinks that are closer to milkshakes than health elixirs. The only real risk of too much coffee is that it can upset your sleep.

  9. Hard Cheese

  Yes, I just called cheese healthy. But of course I’m not talking about the processed American “cheese” that may or may not contain milk. Sadly, I’m not even talking about burrata. Hard cheeses that have been aged (think parmesan and asiago) are the most significant dietary source of vitamin K2, a nutrient that has been shown to protect against heart disease and cancer. Like meat, cheese has a lot of calories, so you still have to be careful about how much you eat. But it’s important to understand that cheese is not just empty calories, and in reasonable amounts it can actually be good for you.

  10. Mushrooms

  Americans tend to view mushrooms as a neutral food, but they have been used in Chinese medicine for thousands of years. Though there really isn’t enough evidence to make conclusive statements about the health benefits of all mushrooms, many compounds have been identified in mushrooms that show potential for boosting immunity and possibly protecting against cancer. Mushrooms are also an unappreciated source of vitamins and minerals and shouldn’t be ignored as low-calorie sponges that only go on pizza.

  One of the problems is that the science is difficult to interpret. It’s easy to find studies showing that people who eat more “whole grains” (I’ll explain the quotation marks shortly) are healthier in every way than people eating more refined grains. That’s undeniable, and it’s one of the reasons everyone agrees processed carbohydrates are bad for you. However, this fact does not prove that eating “whole grains” is better than not eating “whole grains” in the context of a healthier diet based on diverse vegetables, wild fish, and pastured meats. Another problem is that the definition of “whole grains” has been watered down to a point where it is virtually meaningless. Thanks to the FDA, the current definition of a “whole grain” is friendly to food companies, but not to consumers. The FDA requirements a manufacturer must meet to use the term “whole grain” on its label (along with the respective health claims based on the half-truth science mentioned above) are as follows:

  Cereal grains that consist of the intact, ground, cracked or flaked caryopsis, whose principal anatomical components—the starchy endosperm, germ, and bran—are present in the same relative proportions as they exist in the intact caryopsis—should be considered whole grain food. (emphasis mine)

  Get it? To be considered “whole,” grains do not have to be intact. Thus food manufacturers create products using this loose definition to their advantage, processing grains as normal and then adding back the required ratios of grain parts (germ and bran) to meet the standard. This is how some kids’ sugary cereals get spiffy health labels claiming they lower heart disease, when any unbiased nutrition scientist would agree that, with 41 percent sugar by weight, they almost certainly contribute to heart disease. In contrast, research has shown that when the structure of a grain is maintained there is a substantial improvement in carbohydrate metabolism.7

  Some have made the argument that grains should be avoided completely due to the presence of “antinutrients” such as phytic acid and lectins (and yes, these people feel the same way about beans and nuts). Phytic acid (phytate) can bind up certain minerals and prevent their absorption in the body. Zinc and iron are the most problematic, and indeed phytic acid intake is sometimes associated with zinc and iron deficiencies in populations on very limited diets. However, both zinc and iron are abundant in animal products (shellfish like oysters are particularly rich in zinc), so most carnivorous Westerners are not in any danger of being deficient in these minerals. Lectins work differently, disrupting metabolism by interacting with the cells lining the gut. Though very high levels of lectins can be problematic, lesser doses do not appear to cause problems for well-nourished humans. Furthermore, anticancer properties have been attributed to both phytic acid and lectins.* If you are worried about phytic acid and lectins, sprouting, fermenting, and cooking seeds, beans, and grains can drastically reduce the concentration of antinutrients, virtually eliminating any danger.

  My personal experience with grains is that, as long as the ones I choose still look like a grain (think rice, oats, farro, barley, etc.), I can eat a small serving (about a half cup) up to once or twice a day while continuing to lose weight and feel good. In fact, I find that I am happier when I include some starch in my diet (I prefer beans or lentils, but grains also suffice), since it gives me more energy and I feel far more satisfied with less food compared to when I eat vegetables and meat exclusively. Of course, what works for
me will not necessarily work for everyone, and I’ve spoken with people who do better with less starchy foods and some who do better with more. For refined grains like breads and noodles, I’ve found that I can get away with one or two small servings a week and maintain my weight. However, I lose weight faster without them, and if I’m not careful with my portion sizes, bread can make me very lethargic. But I do love me some pizza every now and again. If you find yourself craving breads and sweets, intact grains or beans are a great way to kill those urges without wreaking havoc on your metabolism.

  SAY CHEESE

  Milk, cheese, and other dairy products are a third category of foods that get people’s blood boiling. The U.S. Dairy Council has convinced all of us that milk does a body good and that we’re all dying of calcium deficiency. Unfortunately, their marketing tactics are far stronger than the science backing their claims.

  Let’s start with calcium. Conventional wisdom tells us that calcium is important for strong teeth and bones, and we’ve been taught (falsely) that dairy is pretty much the only place to get it. Although calcium is indeed necessary, there is no evidence that eating more dairy is a reliable way to prevent bone loss.8 In fact, osteoporosis is more common in Western countries than in Asia, Africa, or South America, where dairy is far less common (and lactose intolerance is far more common). Dairy also significantly raises men’s risk of prostate cancer.9 Calcium supplementation alone is actually associated with increased fracture risk10 (so much for that theory) as well as heart disease. Vitamin D in combination with calcium, on the other hand, does reduce fractures.11 Eating plenty of fruits, vegetables, fish, meat, and legumes (all excellent sources of calcium and other nutrients) are more important for bone health than dairy. On a positive note, calcium does seem to reduce the risk for colorectal cancer,12 and claims that it promotes breast cancer have not been substantiated.